Method of waving hair



Patented Jan. 6, 1953 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF WAVING HAIRRose E. Melaro, Oakmont, Pa.

No Drawing. Original application November 9,

1945, Serial No. 627,630. Divided and this application July 1, 1947,Serial No. 758,495

1 Claim.

This invention relates generally to a method of treating and waving hairand more particularly to the process of applying a permanent wave tohair regardless of its length and for treating it to restore or producea natural softness of the waved hair.

Unless the human hair is supplied with a sufficient amount of naturaloil the treatment and heat applied during the process of affixing apermanent wave thereto leaves the hair lifeless or sometimes brittlecausing it to break. If a permanent wave is applied to the same portionof hair that has been previously subjected to a permanent wave itbecomes very brittle and will readily break off.

The principal object of this invention is the provision of a process fortreating the human hair when. a permanent wave is being applied theretowhich process will revitalize the cellular pithy interior making itinherently soft. Such a condition may be produced by adding an agent tothe hair before, during or after the heat has been applied to affix apermanent wave thereto.

Another object is the provision of a method for applying a permanentwave to the new growth of a long strand of hair extending from the oldpermanent to the scalp.

Another object is the provision of a process of selecting and blockingproper sections of the hair from the head for applying a permanent wavethereto.

Another object is the provision of a novel step in the process ofapplying a permanent wave to human hair which consists in the steps ofapplying oil to the hair during the application of a permanent wavethereto and immediately after oxidation b y the application of heat suchas by steaming or solution.

Another object is the provision of the novel step of applying oil to thehair so that it is present during the process of applying heat theretofor affixing a permanent wave in the hair.

Another object is the provision of the step of applying oil to the woundhair immediately after it has been subjected to heat in amxing thepermanent wave thereto. 7

Another object is the provision of the method of winding the hair,preparatory to the application of the permanent wave thereto, in such amanner as to place that portion of the strand of hair which would beexposed in the coiffure adjacent the rod on which the strand is wound.

Other objects and advantages appear in' the following description andclaim.

In carrying out the process comprising this invention it is preferableto employ a hair waving rod that is made in two sections mounted inaxial to one another such as shown in United States 2 Letters Patent No.2,289,446. However, this process may be carried out by use of thestandard spool for uniplanar winding or by the use of the standardspiral rod. The double section independently rotatable rod provides asuperior permanent wave by reason of the fact that the inner and outersections of the strand of hair wound thereon may be independentlytightened when mounted on the hair rod clamp. A strand of hair that hasbeen prepared for affixing a permanent wave thereto will provide adeeper and superior wave if it is tightly wound on the rod regardless ofthe process.

In order to produce anatural softness in the hair after a permanent wavehas been applied thereto it is necessary to treat the same with an oilsuch as a light mineral oil before, during and after the application ofheat to form a pennanent wave therein. This oil treatment will alsorevitalize the dry hair and produces a natural softness in thehairduring the process of affixing a permanent wave thereto.

In carrying out this process it is preferable to remove the natural oilsfrom the hair by shampooing prior to the application of a permanent wavethereto as the natural oil is gummy and has a tendency to seal the hairagainst the entrance o-f permanent wave solution thereto. If the hair isclean and exceedingly dry it is not necessary to employ the step ofshampooing. After shampooing the hair is dryed in an ordinary manner anda light mineral oil is applied to the hair. This step in the process maybe several days before the application of the permanent wave, orimmediately before the application of the permanent wave. The essentialpurpose is to eliminate and replace the natural oils by adding a lightoil to the hair.

The hair is blocked off in strands on the head leading from the foreheadto the nape of the neck. The width dimensions of the strands areordinarily transverse of the head or of the sequence of strands andadjacent the scalp. Each strand may be approximately as wide as thatportion of the hair waving rod on which it is to be wound.

In winding the hair either by the uniplanar or spiral method particularattention should be given as to which side of the strand of hair isexposed in the coiffure after the permanent wave is applied and the hairis set. Ordinarily that side of the strand of hair facing the front ortop of the head, particularly when the strand is held vertically, willbe on the surface when the strand is laid back over the head or down thesideof the head in arranging the hair for the coifiure. This exposedportion of the strand of hair should be given the tightest and thedeepest wave and will give the stylist more latitude in forming thecoiffurel' In order to accomplish this end the hair strand, whenmanipulated either from the back or from the front of the patron, shouldbe wound on the hairwaving rod with the front or exposed surface of thestrand against the rod. In winding the hair so that the exposed surfaceof the strand is against the rod it may be necessary to reverse theposition of the spacer or clamps so that the gear on the rod willproperly fit in the clamp ratchet. Thus, if the operator stand behindthe patron and the strand of hair is laid back over the head the strandshould be affixed to the rod and the rod rolled forwardly over the topof the strand. If, on the other hand, the operator stands in front ofthe patron the operator should place the strand of hair over top of therod and aifix it thereto and roll the rod under the strand towards thepatrons head. In winding the hair in this manner that portion of thestrand which lies against the rod will have the deepest permanent waveand will be exposed when the hair is set.

By winding the hair strand in this manner on a hair waving rod havingtwo sections the wound stran ma be f rther tightened aft e r isjournaled on the clamp by manipulating the sec,- tions independently ofone another thereby providin a very deep wave on that portion that isfully exposed in the coiifure. The hair clamps and rods may thus bepreepositioned to produce this result after the hair strands have beenblocked efi on the head preparatory to applying the permanent wavethereto. By following this principle a deep and lasting permanent wavemay e a p to t he r- After the hair has been shampooed and dried it thenblocked into strands as previously stated and only that portion which isto receive the permanent wave is saturated with the permanent wavesolution and then the proper type of oil is applied immediately beforewinding the hair. The mandrels or hair waving rods employed and shown inthe permanent wave art as it is now being practiced, are provided with afinger clamp which is shaped to fold longitudinally on the rod and thusbecome a part thereof. The hair strands are then individually placedunder this finger clamp and wrapped or wound on the rods and a pad isplaced thereover. This pad or envelope may be made of any suitablematerial that will carry oil but is preferably constructed from a thinsheet of cellophane the surface of which has been impressed to providefine undulations producing reticulated surfaces on both sides thereofcapable of holding a liquid such as oil. Other suitable pads such ascloth or gauze, which is capable of holding oil or a liquid, may beemployed. However, it is preferable to use cellohen bec u i s e toughand thi end x ensi e an vides a ha surface When wound with the hair onthe rod.

These pads are dipped in a light oil, such as mineral oil, so that thesurfaces are wetted and carry a material amount of oil. The oil wettedpad is then folded around the strand ,of hair and s ced unde h n er clamo the he r We ing rod. Thus, the pad prevents direct contact et n the hand he r and a ries a ure y ei o sur ou din he ran AS th e is ro t d ton he st and ther o the Pad o envelope s n ru s eut and a mil r ped P oerly saturated with oil may then be placedaround the next section of thestrand of hair. The strand may be wound in this man er by ad ing.additienel 9 saturated ads nti t e stra d i .eompl t ou d on th re o te a may he used only to protect the hair from direct contact with therod and other parts of the apparatus such as the heater, but it ispreferable to use the pads all along the strand. The applications ofpads on the strand of hair in this manner provides a relatively hardflexible surface between the layers of the strand of hair wound aroundthe rod and when the strand is tightened on the rod these relativelyhard surfaces aid in permitting the strand to be drawn very tightly onthe rod and provide a deep or permanent wave in that portion of thestrand forming the outer section of the outer strand than obtainablewithout the pads.

Each strand is first saturated with the permanent wave solution and isthen treated with oil by means of oil saturated pads, cellophane, gauze,or other suitable material, and is substantially enclosed in an oilenvelope, when wound preparatory to apply heat thereto for the purposeof producing the permanent wave. The oil is preferably applied in liquidform but may be cream or other emollient agent.

The heating means or other suitable method of aflixing a wave to thehair is applied during the usual time required for the particular typeof hair and apparatus employed, and then removed. As soon as the heateris removed the hot wound hair is saturated with oil, such as a thin oilof the proper consistency, which application of oil expedites thecooling of the hair wound upon the rod and aids in furthering therevitalization of the hair without destroying the deep permanent wave.The hot hair strand should preferably remain tightly wound during thissaturation with oil until it is completely cooled. The hair may then beunwound from the rods and shampooed to remove the excess oil. Thistreatment of the hair gives it a natural softness and it is more readilyset.

It is highly important to apply the oil to the hair during the processof applying the permanent wave thereto and just as soon as the heat isturned 01f and the heater quickly removed as the hair absorbs the oilmore readily when hot and oil does not disturb the function of theoxidized hair waving solution. It may thus be preferable to energize theheating coils successively rather than simultaneously in order to applythe oil as soon as the heater is de-energized and removed. However, inmost machines the heaters are turned 01f and on simultaneously, in whichcase all of the heaters are quickly removed at the proper time and agenerous amount of oil is applied to the hot wound hair.

This process i equally applicable for treating the hair waved by theso-called cold wave process wherein a hair Waving chemical solutionknown in the art as a reducing agent is applied to soften the hair whichis then smoothly wound within the oil saturated envelopes on the rod. Asecond chemical solution known in the art as an oxidizing agent is thenapplied to the wound hair to neutralize and oxidize the first orpermanent wave solution and thereby afiix the shape in the tightlywrapped hair to produce the permanent wave therein with little or nonoticeable heat. Immediately following the treatment by the oxidizingsolution the hair is then saturated with a light oil before beingunwound. However, the cold hair will not absorb the oil as readily as itdoes when hot but the application of oil immediately after the oxidizingperiod produces a neierel $1 WlliQh S m to revitalize the hair treatedby the so-called cold wave process.

With this process it is preferable not to apply the pads for the fulllength of the strands.

To apply a permanent wave to the new growth of hair a permanent Wavesolution is applied only to that portion of the hair that does not havea permanent Wave. The permanent wave solution softens the hair tubers.Oil is then applied to the hair strand and it is then wound in themanner previously described so that the end of the old permanent wave,that is closest to the scalp, is under or just beyond the finger clampof the hair waving rod and the remaining portion forming the outer partof the strand of hair, although treated with oil, is free as thisportion contains a permanent wave therein. This loose end of the strandof hair is permitted to pass off the end of the rod and out through thefingers while the other portion of the strand is being wound on the rodin the manner previously described. As the rod is turned and approachesthe hair clamp it is seated and locked on the journals of the hair clampin the usual manner. The rod is then manipulated to tighten the innerand outer hair strand sections relative to each other and relative tothe hair clamp while maintaining the free end of the strand away fromthe clamp. The hair is thus tightly wound.

on the rod and covered with an oiled pad and may be covered by a maskingmaterial such as tape or other suitable means to protect it from theexterior of the heater.

The heater is then inserted over the tightly wound and protected hairand heat is applied to oxidize the permanent wave solution within thehair tubers for the purpose of affixing the cross-linkage or cysteinecondition in the tightly wrapped strand to produce a permanent wavetherein. Thus, a permanent wave is applied to the new growth of hair bythis process.

It is preferable to use a hair Waving rod having two independentlyoperable sections in order to properly tighten the strand after it hasbeen wound on the rod. Unless the rod sections are independentlyrotatable the Wound hair cannot be properly tightened on the rod owingto the fact that the free end of the strand extends from the rod. Aloosely wound strand of hair will produce a weak or poor wave. However,if a single pieced rod is supported solely at its ratchet end, the otherend being free to permit the free end of the strand of hair to passtherefrom, this method of waving a new growth of hair may be practicedto advantage but it is far better to provide a multiple-section rod asit permits the strand of hair to be tightened to a greater degreethereby improving the wave.

In carrying out the process of applying a permanent wave to the newgrowth of hair it is preferable to block off the scalp in hair strandsstarting from the center of the forehead straight back to the nape ofthe neck and form strands from the top of the head at the front down thesides of the head above and in front of the ears. The remaining strandsfrom the top of the head to behind the ears may have to be taken on asecond shift or winding owing to the lack of room for the clamps and thesame process is carried out that is, blocking, applying hair wavingsolutions, then oil or emollients, winding and finishing the processeither by heat, machineless or cold wave, and the loose ends of thestrands of formerly waved hair must be protected from the hair wavingsolution and heated in the same manner previously described.

If the hair is unusually dry it should be shampooed a day or two beforeapplying the permanent wave thereto and then treated with a lightsuitable oil that is permitted to soften the hair which is againshampooed to remove the excess oil. This treatment revitalizes the haira day or so preparatory to the application of a permanent wave thereto.This step provides a natural softness to very dry hair and protects itfrom becoming brittle due to the permanent wave treatment. Oil is ofcourse again added to the hair strands after they are treated with apermanent wave solution as previously stated.

The application of a permanent wave solution and then oil to a hairstrand is preferably practiced before the strand is wound but one orboth of these steps may be applied after winding.

As previously stated, it is preferable to employ a double section rod,one section having the finger clamp but both sections beingindependently rotatable relative to each other although mounted on acommon axis as a unit. With this type of rod the aforementioned processmay be practiced to provide an ordinary Croquignole or spiral wave or acombination Croquignole and spiral wave.

This application is a division of application, Serial No. 627,630, filedNovember 9, 1945, and now granted as Patent No. 2,608,194.

I claim:

The method of applying an oil permanent wave to human hair whichconsists in the successive steps of wetting a strand of hair with apermanent wave solution, saturating pads with oil, placing the oilsaturated pads on the wetted strand of hair to retain and directly applythe oil to the hair, Winding the strand of hair together with the oilsaturated pads about a mandrel, oxidizing the permanent wave solution inthe wound strand of hair, the hair absorbing the 011 to nourish andrevitalize the same, and again applying oil to the wound strand afterthe oxldizing step.

' ROSE E. MELARO.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date Re.z1,994 Freuoenberg Jan. 6,1942 1,104,192 Kremer Dec. 14, 1915 1,015,918 Mcuuman Nov. 4, 19241,004,023 Cou1son Mar. 27, 1928 1,608,098 Schnen May 8, 1928 1,606,775Latz May 8, 1928 1,812,442 Lewis June 99, 1931 1,959,523 siavick Dec.12, 1933 1,909,500 Eberhard Aug. 7, 1934 1,985,909 Livingston Dec. 11,1934 2,905,209 1v1c1ntusn uec. 8, 1936 2,102,714 Torres Apr. 4, 19592,185,894 Pye Dec. 19, 1939 2,2u1,u29 Speakman May 21, 1940 lace/146lvielaro July 14, 1942 2,851,718 Speakman June 20, 1944 2,399,073 CalvaDec. 4, 1945 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 597,490 Great BritainJan. 27, 1948

